Видео

Or a fuckleberry pie.

'76 Yamaha GP246F, '79 Arctic ElTigre 5000, '91 Arctic Prowler 440, ' 96 Polaris 600 XLT... All but the Yamaha needed work due to the simplest things that could have been engineered better. However, my Yamaha ran great, my brother's identical one ran like crap, even with 'tech support' invoice. Yamaha recently quit building sleds...

The strainer is the only filter. I thought about the need for floppiness, but don't see that this will reliably flop forward on downhills. The fuel line is too thick/stiff, and the strainer is not heavy enough to affect this. The line will probably flop a little sideways, but that's all. Also, the pickup at the back of the tank is not the low point when level because the tunnel slopes up to the back. So the tank is effectively much smaller than it would appear. If doing a lot of crazy down-hilling, probably best to keep the tank relatively full. Before installing new line, maybe I'll build an "open tank model/mock-up" so see what the pickup does when the tank is tipped.

@@idahoviking that fuel line was probably very soft and supple at one point. Only reason I can see for them building the tank this way is so that pickup can “find fuel”. Not saying the manufacture really knew what they were doing, but I’m sure that was their intent. A simple “day tank” might be better design, gasoline and fuel addatives will always deteriorate that fuel line quickly. A neoprene fuel line might hold up longer?

Some folks suggest tygon. Bing AI suggests SAE 30r10 submersible. I'll buy what Polaris recommends, then do a floppiness test.

Do you know why it inverted?

@@idahoviking Not specifically, but I remember getting into I77 where the on ramp had a fairly tight turn with the offending side on the inside, and it was rough. Possibly some pot holes, and I was going a little faster than I should have been. Within a few miles to getting up to speed it got very unstable and I coasted down to the side of the road with a firm grip, feathering the trailer brake. Since the back wheel was off the ground completely, all the weight shifted off of the tongue, and it acted exactly like a misloaded trailer would. Been there, seen that before, scared the crap out of us, but at least I knew what to do. It was probably on that ramp. Drove 7 miles at low speed to an exit. Tried jacking up the frame, I didn't know. Found a trailer place 7 miles away over WV mountain back roads, rear tire off the ground all the way. They used two bars and a jack to pop it back. Drove home 300 miles, didn't notice the misalignment until much later when I put the inside chocks under the wheels. I still have to unload the motorcycle and jack it up to measure everything. 7500# rated axle, 14' enclosed V-nose, loaded to approximately 3800# total weight. 14% on the tongue, equalizer bars set properly. Hope that all helps and makes sense, it's all the information I have.

And thank you for asking.

@@OogieWa The fact that this design persists and is "popular" is absolutely mystifying. Alternatively, the "slipper spring" design exists and eliminates this problem. But apparently it is reserved for heavier trailers. Why? The Internet claims that slipper springs are rougher riding. I'll believe that only when I see accelerometer data comparison.

@@idahoviking I can't figure out why there isn't a simple shackle with a tab sticking out that would prevent over-travel. Just have it hit the equalizer a couple of degrees before straight across so it could never pop down. I mean you're already at the end of travel. No different than a jounce bumper on a car suspension or shocks that stop travel. Anyway, I've got to make sure nothing is damaged. All the brackets on the frame look normal so far. I can't imagine that the spring got deformed with only half the rated capacity. I didn't see any pins on the springs or holes in the axle brackets, so hopefully one just slid a little and I can just knock the axle back.

I am sorry to hear that you are clearless. If you'd like to understand, just ask questions.

Nice face plant.

For the stiffeners onlinemetals.com or metalsdepot.com. I forget which. Didn't try plexus. The window frame material came from HCM. I've not looked for an alternative supplier, but I've noticed various aluminum extrusions online.

The range stated on gun is -6 to +608 F, so should be good. Various Internet sources say that temp guns are inaccurate with hot reflective surfaces. They don't say how/why this is true, only that it is true.

@@idahoviking Thanks.

2018. Note that this isn't specifically an HCM thing. For example, in my 1989 Custom Weld, at around 700 hours, two feet of every stringer was broken out and rattling around loose in the bottom of the boat.

@@idahoviking I just went through the welds I can see and no cracks yet. I have the full hard top maybe that helps a bit.. Going to do a deeper dive soon. I only run the canyon about once a yr so it might not take the beating yours has. Love the vids..

Let me know how your deeper dive goes. I actually spend most of my time on the upper Main Salmon, which has almost zero flat water. So that is also a consideration.

Think of a steel-toed boot. When you walk, the boot has LOTS of flex just behind the steel toe. Think of the boat's bow deck and dash region as the steel toe. Behind this region, there is lots of flexing when running any sort of waves. That's the general problem. There is also some flexing/distortion that happens at the back of the cabin. This translates into stress on the grab handles, and at the intersection between the side and the front of the super structure. You can see this by observing the back of the superstructure of the boat that smashes the bank at the following video. This happens when hitting waves sideways, as well as when smashing the bank. ruclips.net/video/7YXv7zOy-0w/видео.html

It wasn't expected at first, but now that I better understand the design (and many similar designs), it is expected. My old 1989 Custom Weld fell apart as per this disintegration video. ruclips.net/video/SoaGAYBePbo/видео.html

@@idahoviking does the type of weld (mig, tig) make a difference on boats? The factory welds look like mig welds, correct?

​@@marvinsauer8493 Mostly mig. Outside corners as per the side of the steps are generally tig. Short "pretty" welds are often tig. I don't have enough experience to comment exactly why/when/where one is better than the other.

your long boats look very capable. May some day I will drive one.

Screaming passengers are irritating.

Don't know weight of DI, but I'm guessing 150 lbs less than 460. Fuel burn is maybe 15% better with the DI. TQ is 460 with DI, maybe 360 with 460.

So you think it’s a worth while swap

@@user-ju3ns2cz1u Only if there's a reason for it. Stroking the 460 might be the better/cheaper option, assuming an experienced and vetted marine engine builder. For white water, the bow design is as important as power.

That leads me to my next question. I have 95 Duckworth magnum. 454 with 212. The bow looks similar to your 460 boat. News boats are not cheap . And I like to fab and refurbish . This boat does family time and hopefully more white water soon. Am I wasting time researching stick steer mod and a repower if my bow is not like hcm granite style?

@@user-ju3ns2cz1u I did a lot with that old 460. And you can do a lot with a Magnum too. Some folks are successful with a Thunderjet, which probably has the worst white water bow. But it is easier with a flatter bow (less bow shear), stick steer (quicker response) and more power. Note that some of the flatter sled-style bows have a very short bow length. This means the bottom rises abruptly, and the bow tends to plow rather than ride up on waves. Given that your money doesn't grow on trees, I'd take a wait and see approach: sometimes the best move is no move. And remember, the jet boat world is full of bullshit.

It's torsion axle, so lifting the tongue takes weight off the front axle. In the limit, the front wheels are in the air, and its load is distributed between the hitch and rear axle. But most of its weight goes to the rear axle. Climbing a hill doesn't matter because road grades are either constant or changing very slowly.

I'm guessing that 14/21 is some sort of physical dimensions, rather than power absorption. What's needed is either power versus RPM curves, or power at one RPM combined with the cubic assumption. Also, the method here is assisted by the relatively flat torque of a large V8. Assuming your jet ski is 2-stroke, then the torque is very peaky, so an accurate guesstimate will require a power versus RPM curve for your engine. So in summary, more information is needed.

@@idahoviking yeah. This won’t apply to my needs. The jet skis 14/22 is the leading edge pitch vs the trailing edge pitch. Thanks for the info tho.

Getting one of my bigger boats to this rapid at this flow requires knowledge and skills that I don’t have. Care to teach me?

Mason's bro Derek.

@@idahovikingGreat filming by the one they call Derek.

Available for $$. Use 1 time or Use at home and adjust loads in boat or trailer position to achieve better balance, and want to use at home over period of couple days, then no more!

@@user-be5ng6il4y with RV's the load can and does change drastically dependent on the trip you are taking. A weekend does not require the same as a month long trip. That being said for a boat yes it doesn't make a lot of sense but there are other uses that do.

The water is high, so the river is deep and wide. This is the best time to learn. I and others first ran this when we knew exactly zero about anything.

I don't have a depth gauge. But if the bank slope continues until the 2 sides meet, then we can say it's pretty darned deep.

21', 6 foot bottom, 11 degree, Kodiak 6.2DI, 212 with Solas 3.4 impeller. On this 21' boat, the bow begins to take shape 10 feet from the front. So the bow rise is very long and gradual, and is my preference. It tends to climb up waves, while more abrupt design bash into them. Although I do enjoy this configuration, I do not endorse any manufacturer.

Thanks again. Wish it was on their site. Last November I bought a boat from Guy’s Outdoors, Lewiston. It’s a Jim Bingham boat who worked at NW Jet for 35 years and then they decided no more inboards. He started Magnum Marine. Mine is exactly like yours but I’m not sure the deadrise, maybe 12 degree. Really like your videos. I want to do the same! Love to go out some time and run with you.

I forgot, did you get hydraulic reverse or go with the cable. I’d like to get hydraulic down the road.

@@user-fz5cg4rr7c See Facebook group "Idaho Jet Boating". Runs are announced.

@@user-fz5cg4rr7c Cable. It took a while to sort this out. I ended up removing the "brake box." This is reasonable because I have a single lever control, so my hand is always attending both the throttle and bucket position on one lever. I feel zero need to modify this setup. It is very quick.